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DISCOVERING THE BEST OF BAK KUT TEH IN PENANG

Posted by crizlai On September - 11 - 2009

It has been quite some time since I had good Bak Kut Teh (BKT) in Penang ever since the closures of my favorite BKT stall right in the heart of Georgetown, Penang. After months of hunting around Penang for a BKT stall that would suit my taste bud, I finally found one. The treasured discovery was not located within the island itself but over at the mainland Penang. Moreover, it was not even any stall from our local Penang Bak Kut Teh community but a newly born 6 months old branch of one of the famous traditional Bak Kut Teh outlet from Klang, Selangor, birth place of Bak Kut Teh. Welcome to the newly opened branch of Restoran Ki Xiang.

Bak Kut Teh (as spoken in Hokkien/肉骨茶) is literally translated as “Pork Bone Tea” in English. It’s actually a variant of rich herbal soup cooked with different meaty bone parts of bones. Firstly introduced locally in the 19th century by the Chinese workers in the then Malaya, it was to be a tonic dish to supplement the under nutrition diet of the coolies but eventually it became a dish for general health for everyone especially those within the Klang Valley population. It is believed that there are still about 400 outlets of Bak Kut Teh stalls remaining there today.

There are three versions of Bak Kut Teh (BKT) in Malaysia – the Teochew style which has a more peppery taste and lighter in soup color, the Hokkien style which is saltier with a darker color from the soy sauce used and the Cantonese style which has more herbs and spices added for a stronger medicinal value. The version served in Restoran Ki Xian has gone through 3 generations with a soup base that has thicker and stronger herb taste. Moreover, the soup was not as overpowering as most of the shops out there. Just look at my one person mixed meat clay pot (RM8) with lots of free tofu puffs and tofu sticks plus enokitake (金針菇/golden needle mushroom – RM4). There were so many choice pieces of meat in the clay pot and yet the price was barely half of those BKT found on the island. It’s extremely value for money dining here. One note… If you intend to add in the enoki mushrooms into your pot, you might get a slightly altered taste as these mushrooms would make the soup having some sour after taste. That would have killed the original taste of the soup. Try asking them to serve you that in a separate bowl. I’m sure they would be obliged to any customer request.

On top of the accompanied tofu puffs and sticks, here are some of the meaty parts you can request – streaky pork ribs (五花骨), spare ribs (排骨), big marrow bones (大骨), small marrow bones (小骨), cartilage (軟骨), lean meat (瘦肉), fatty meat (肥肉), semi fatty meat (半肥肉), (pork trotters (豬腳), pork knuckles (豬腳彎), pig’s tail (豬尾), pig’s stomach (豬肚) and pork intestines (豬腸). There would also be more add ons for tofu sticks (豆腐乾) and enoki mushrooms (金針菇). In case you would like to have specific bone parts, you can always order individual bowls at RM8 each. Here are the uncut versions of all the parts they have.

Klang’s serving of rice would be different compared to what you normally get in our local BKT stalls. Instead of the normal steam white rice, dark soy sauce oil rice or even yam rice, the restaurant here served steam white rice mixed with fried shallots and oil. It’s only RM1 per large bowl or 50sen for a smaller portion.

Even the boiled lettuce would not have the normal meat floss or fried lard with oil garnishing. It’s just a simple plate of Boiled Lettuce (油菜) with some oyster sauce and fried shallots garnishing at RM6 per plate. To me, it’s healthy enough for everyone.

Chinese Crullers or You Tiao (油條) would surely come with each BKT meal. For only RM1, you can get a large bowl here.

As for the condiments, they have chopped garlic, cili padi (bird eye chili), soy sauce and dark say sauce. The chopped chilies sure tasted better than the normal sliced ones as each piece of meat would be covered with an evenly spread spiciness.

Well, what I had mentioned above was not the award winning dish I had been yearning for ever since I was first introduced to an established BKT stall in Klang last year. After trying out so many of the so called dry Klang style BKT from the island as well as mainland Penang, none can please my satisfaction other than the heavenly taste of the dry BKT here. Priced at only RM8 too, you can choose whatever meat parts you like and the chef would simmer them dry in a clay pot with a handful of dried chilies, cuttlefish strips, lady’s fingers slices, dark soy sauce and some of their thick BKT stock. One bite and you would want more. It’s the best of the best so far. This is a must order if you happen to drop by the Megamall area. You can even check out their other branches in Bandar Baru, Bukit Tinggi and Ampang.

Finding the restaurant would be easy if you know your way to the Seberang Perai Megamall. After you exit from the Penang Bridge toll, drive all the way until you see the third exit on your left. Turn left and that would lead you to into Jalan Baru. Megamall is just slightly further away on your left. Slow down and watch out for the first left turning. Turn into Jalan Perai Jaya 3 and drive until the end and turn right. Drive until the end and you would see the big blue roofed Pasar Awam Megamall on your left. That’s where Restoran Ki Xiang is located. To get back to the island, use the road opposite the complex (Jalan Perai Jaya 5) and follow the flow until you see the second traffic light. Turn left and you would see the route to the Butterworth Jetty Terminal (overhead bridge longer way, underpass via expressway with toll) or turn right towards Penang Bridge.

Name: RESTORAN KI XIANG @ PASAR AWAM MEGAMALL
Address: Jalan Perai Jaya 3, Taman Perai Jaya, 13700 Perai, Penang, Malaysia.
Contact: 016-295 5546, 016-313 8993
Business Hours: 9.00am-10.00pm
GPS: 5.374071, 100.399733

RATING:
Ambience: 8/10 (1-4 cheap, 5-7 average, 8-10 classy)
Food Choices: 8.5/10 (1-4 limited, 5-7 average, 8-10 many choices)
Taste: 9/10 (1-4 tasteless, 5-7 average, 8-10 excellent)
Pricing: 7/10 (1-4 cheap, 5-7 average, 8-10 expensive)
Service: 9/10 (1-4 bad, 5-7 average, 8-10 excellent)

RESTORAN SENG HUAT BAK KUT TEH

Posted by Criz Lai On August - 26 - 2008

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I could not believe my ears when I heard that Klang alone has over 300 stalls and shops selling Bak Kut Teh. No wonder Klang is believed to be the home of Bak Kut Teh. When I was in Klang, I thought I could revisit Fei Kay for their yummy Dry Bak Kut Teh. At the same time, I was also tempted to try out another famous stall known as “Under The Klang Bridge” Restaurant. In the end, I went for the new taste. I was expecting that all Bak Kut Teh stalls in Klang would have the dry version but I was wrong. This restaurant served only the soup version. Fortunately, the dish turned out to be marvelous. The soup was thick with the proper ingredients and was extremely tasty.

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We also order a plate of Oil Vegetables to compliment our meaty dish. The differences between the vegetables (Cameron Lettuce) and the one served in Penang was that Klang style garnished the boiled vegetables with garlic oil and fried onions, whereas Penang style would be with fried lard in oil with meat floss.

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The steamed rice was also different. It’s cooked with pork oil and garnished with fried garlic or fried onions, somewhat like the Hainanese style chicken rice. Penang style would be plain white rice or dark soy sauce rice with dried shrimps. Anyway, the rice was real fragrant and tasty to be taken with the Bak Kut Teh.

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After enjoying the meal without noticing about how famous this shop had got itself into, I saw some newspaper cuttings on the wall showing how much Liang Wen Tao love this place. Uncle Liang, a Hong Kong Food Critic and Gourmet Secret Agent food presenter and author of many cookbooks had visited the restaurant twice for their Bak Kut Teh within the last 10 years. If a famous TVB person like him would revisit the restaurant, it must be real good then. By the way, the restaurant has been operating for the last 3 decades and ranked top 10 in Malaysia. Here’s the proof of his review in the local China Post.

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As for the pricing, I won’t say it’s expensive as the 3 of us consumed RM22.20 worth of dishes with an extra helping of the oil rice. We brought our own tea leaves too since they were charging only 40sen per person for utilizing their hot water kettles. Here’s the price list:

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Restoran Seng Huat Bak Kut Teh is also popularly known as the Restaurant “Under the Klang Bridge”. It is a corner lot the same stretch as the Klang KTM station. To get to the restaurant, you have to drive into Jalan Jambatan Kota and turn right into Jalan Dato Hamzah. When you see a “Y” junction, turn left into Jalan Tengku Diaudin. When you see a Bomba on your left, turn into the lane and you will also see the Klang District Police Headquarters on your left. Just drive forward while following the curve and you will see a pedestrian overhead bridge on your left. The restaurant is just next to the bridge along Jalan Besar.

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Name: RESTORAN SENG HUAT BAK KUT TEH
Address: 9, Jalan Besar, 41000 Klang, Selangor, Malaysia.
Contact: 012-309 8303, 012-385 5154 (Mr. John Lee)
Opening Hours: 7.00am – 12.00noon, 5.30pm – 8.30pm
GPS: 3.043566, 101.448441

RATING:
Ambience: 7/10 (1-4 cheap, 5-7 average, 8-10 classy)
Food Choices: 7/10 (1-4 limited, 5-7 average, 8-10 many choices)
Taste: 9/10 (1-4 tasteless, 5-7 average, 8-10 excellent)
Pricing: 7/10 (1-4 cheap, 5-7 average, 8-10 expensive)
Service: 8/10 (1-4 bad, 5-7 average, 8-10 excellent)

FATTY MEE HOON KUIH HOUSE

Posted by Criz Lai On August - 19 - 2008

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Sometimes I would spend half an hour until an hour plus just to wait for my hawker food to be served on my table. Is it worth the time waiting? Well, as Penangites, somehow we have the in-built food detector in us. We can sense that whenever there is a large queue in any of the hawker stalls or restaurants, the food served there must be real good. We would willingly and patiently wait for our turns.

One such stall which I visited recently was the famous Taman Berkeley Fatty Mee Hoon Kuih stall. The Mee Hoon Kuih was actually another version of Pan Mee. The dough (Mee Hoon) came as a ball. Before cooking, it would be flattened using both hands (instead of rolling through a mini machine as in Pan Mee) and then peeled into a pot of boiling water to cook. The cooked dough would then be mixed into a pot of soup stock with slices of pork and Chinese cabbage (choy sum). It would then be garnished with fried anchovies (ikan bilis) and fried onions.


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This shop has been getting a lot of publicity from overseas as well as local food reviewers such as Ho Chak! You can see lots of advertisements and write-ups from various magazines stuck on the walls. To know how good it is as advertised, you have to try it out yourself. To some, this dish is good. To others, it’s only normal and nothing spectacular. The only difference is that they will allow you to add in fried lard to enhance the taste.

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What the pricing then? Did all the publicity affect their pricing? Well, no. I ordered the bowl shown above and paid only RM3.50. It was RM3.00 for the normal bowl of noodle plus an additional 50sen for the egg. Not expensive right? Here is the latest price list as displayed on their wall. They can even pack for you the dough and ingredients separately to allow you to cook at home. Don’t you think this is a wonderful service as you can cook the dish and eat whenever you feel like it? Everything will cost you only RM3.00 a set.

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If you are driving from Klang towards Bandar Baru Klang, drive into Jalan Batu Tiga, then Persiaran Sultan Ibrahim. Use the Federal Highway and turn left into Persiaran Rajawali. Drive on until you reach the fourth junction on your right. That is Lebuh Bangau. After two junctions, you will see the fully packed restaurant somewhere towards the end of a row of shoplots.

FATTYMAP

Name: FATTY MEE HOON KUIH HOUSE @ RESTORAN SIN HOOI HUA
Address:
19, Lebuh Bangau, Taman Berkeley, 41150 Klang, Selangor, Malaysia.
Contact: 012-336 6183, 017-336 6183 (Mr. Choo)
Opening Hours: 10.00am – 11.00pm
GPS: 3.058158, 101.465113

RATING:
Ambience: 6/10 (1-4 cheap, 5-7 average, 8-10 classy)
Food Choices: 7/10 (1-4 limited, 5-7 average, 8-10 many choices)
Taste: 7.5/10 (1-4 tasteless, 5-7 average, 8-10 excellent)
Pricing: 7/10 (1-4 cheap, 5-7 average, 8-10 expensive)
Service: 7/10 (1-4 bad, 5-7 average, 8-10 excellent)

FEI KAY KLANG BAK KUT TEH

Posted by Criz Lai On June - 4 - 2008

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Whenever Penangites think about Bak Kut Teh, it will always be the soup based type where they will choose whatever parts of the pork which interest them most. Recently, I was invited by a friend in Klang to try out one of the best Bak Kut Teh there. To my surprise, the Bak Kut Teh came in two types – the dry and the soup based. The soup based Bak Kut Teh was like those served in Penang except that the pork inside were meaty choice pieces. But the dry one made me want to go back there again to eat more.

The meats, mostly belly parts were cooked in herbal soup and then cut into smaller pieces. The meat were then fried in some yummy dark sauce, cuttlefish strips, sliced lady’s fingers, dried chillies and some mushrooms and brought to boil in a claypot to maintain its hotness. You should try out this yummy dry version.

The two claypots of Bak Kut Teh cost 3 of us only RM23 with 5 bowls of rice. Here are the photos on how the Bak Kut Teh looked like.

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The restaurant is within the Taman Bayu Perdana area along the main road of Persiaran Pegaga. You would not miss the place as it has an airplane logo on the sign board. If you are not sure, just ask around as most of the Klang people would know the location of this shop.

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Name: RESTORAN FEI KAY
Address:
95 (Tingkat Bawah), Persiaran Pegaga,
Taman Bayu Perdana, 41200 Klang, Selangor, Malaysia.
Tel: 019-340 8883 (Fei Kay)
Opening Hours: 8.00am – 10.00pm
GPS: 3.019970, 101.431875

RATING:
Ambience: 5/10 (1-4 cheap, 5-7 average, 8-10 classy)
Food Choices: 7/10 (1-4 limited, 5-7 average, 8-10 many choices)
Taste: 8/10 (1-4 tasteless, 5-7 average, 8-10 excellent)
Pricing: 7/10 (1-4 cheap, 5-7 average, 8-10 expensive)
Service: 8/10 (1-4 bad, 5-7 average, 8-10 excellent)

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